Experiences of a common man!

Tag: Culture

A scene from a feast with a great number of dishes

A Wedding: The Feast of Love

I am thrifty. I think thirty times (ok, that was an exaggeration to relate thrifty and thirty) a lot before I spend a hundred rupees. When my expenditure increases, I get worried. Therefore, I say to my parents often, “My wedding will sure be expensive for sure. How can we cut expenses?”

“By not including alcohol in your feast,” Dad says.

I like the idea for I am a teetotaller but I offer a radical solution. “Let’s not have the feast at all.”

“Don’t say that,” Mom disagrees. “We have attended weddings of hundreds of couples. We can’t exclude them.”

I shut my mouth and start thinking the solution. The thriftiest solution would be a temple wedding and no party hence. But my parents disagree to that. Society has an more important role in helping me and my parents the mode of the feast.

Society criticizes someone who does not conduct a feast. Some complaints are:
“Falana* did not call us in his wedding.” (*Falano is a word used to indicate someone without mentioning their names. Falana is masculine. Falani is feminine.)
“Falani bosated her son earns crores. She did not give a party on his wedding!”
“Can’t they spend a little of what they earn to feed their neighbours?”

But people complain everytime. They make a fuss if they are not called. The invited ones complain about the variety and quality of the food. If you don’t include alcoholic beverages, they say, “That was like a Pooja, not a wedding Bhoj.” If somebody pukes because of excessive drinking, others holler about the inclusion of “hard” drinks. You can’t satisfy everybody.

But there might be more to to the feast. Jantis plus the relatives, neighbours and friends who could not attend the main ceremony are yet to celebrate the union of the two families. The groom and his family invites them before the actual ceremony on a feast called the Preetibhoj. The compound word is derived by combining Preeti (love) and Bhoj (feast). An English term “Reception” has become popular but I like the translation of Preetibhoj, “Feast of Love”, more.

The Feast of Love is the first formal gathering for the couple. Where a guy and a girl walking together in the street can be a taboo, the Bhoj helps people identity the groom and the bride as a couple.

Dowry, huge feasts and high expense make me feel that appeasement of the society is more important than the real status of the community. So, people fall in debt to try making others happy, who unfortunately are never going to be satisfied.

***

The Feast of Love of my neighbours is held at a party palace not too far from my home. Therefore, there won’t be much problem when we return. My family goes with many of other neighbours. Once we reach the party palace at about six in the evening, one aunty says, “People around here must be happy. Music and feast everyday!”

We have an excellent proverb: “गुण पनि धेरै खायो भने तितो हुन्छ ।” (Translation: If you eat too much sugar, it gets bitter.) Too much music and partying is hated by the people of the surrounding. They shut their doors and windows, shut their ears and mutter curses! Some curses come up on Twitter. Most get welled-up.

Another aunty says what I had in mind. We enter the one storeyed, zinc plate covered party “palace” which has been divided into two sections. A second wedding feast is taking place on the other side. The feast has begun, people are clicking photos with the bride and the groom, eating, drinking, dancing and are everywhere!

Children are running. No parents can control them. Forming suitable groups, they go here and there. They sometimes knock upon elders, sometimes upon waitiers and sometimes break glasses spiling cold drinks to the floor. While the owner is earning, the workers are burning!

In almost every wedding I have attended, I get to see unhappy faces of the waiters and helpers. While the host and the guest are enjoying, they are in grief that they have to work.
It’s natural to be sad that you can enjoy, it’s human to be jealous. Even anger can be justified because of the activities of people and their children. The food might be good, the drink might be excellent, the music may be loud, but the owners and managers have failed in making their employees smile.

Had they been in the West, their Party Palaces may not run for long with unhappy workers. Because we only care about the food and the behaviour of the owner(s), they’re still doing good. However, in long run, they must pay attention to keep their employees happy. They must sort out the problems.

But still I feel bad for people who are sad. Will they ever be happy?

***

The food items that are used as starters are good but heavy. They fill my stomach even before I reach the dining hall for the main course. I don’t feel like eating but I’m attracted by chicken and fish, which I don’t usually get to eat at home.

My stomach still believes that it can accommodate more. I take about half an hour before I eat everything except a few bones. Will my stomach digest it? I doubt. So, I decide to boost digestion by chewing up antacid tablets as soon as I reach home.
I get a remedy in the form of yogurt. It’s cold but refreshing. My stomach already feels better.

Meanwhile, people take more than they require and leave food on their tables. Just as at bride’s during the wedding ceremony, a lot of food fills the trash. My parents taught me never to throw food. Maybe their parents did not teach them, maybe they forgot or maybe they chose not to follow their parents’ advice.

***

The dance never attracts me. I shy away from the crowd listening to songs now dominated by Nepali over Hindi. “We now have a lot of “party” songs,” my sister says.

They are not Western-style Bollywood party songs, they are Nepali folk style party songs. (Sometimes, they are remixed, which I don’t like.) I agree with my sister and we make a list of songs that are being played. We can count them on our fingers but it’s okay to have something than to have nothing.

The bride and the groom, their parents and relatives, neighbours and friends all dance together. I wish everyone stayed as happy as they are. I also wish they didn’t need a stimulant (alcohol) to make them happy.

At 9 o’clock, the music stops, the party palace prepares to close and we all prepare to leave. Kathmandu has no night life except at a few places. I sleeps after ten. I don’t know if it’s good or bad. As a tourist city, it’s bad but as we are a bunch of free and happy people who must sleep in time, I think it’s okay. We don’t want to be zombies!

A Mithila-style drawing showing the exchange of garlands

A Wedding (Part 3/4): The Ceremony

Birth, wedding and death are the three most important ceremonies in the life of a human. One does not know what happens at birth and what happens after death but they can witness their wedding. While birth is a ceremony of joy and death that of distress, a wedding is an affair that mixes both joy and distress. I’m going to see this just as the bride prepares to arrive at the groom’s house. Before that, I must attend the ceremony with the groom and and his family.

***

Nepali Panche Baja that also make the Naumati. The combination here is Naumati. Source: Wikimedia

The music of Panche Baja wakes up the neighbourhood. Panche baja is a set of five instruments: Narsingha, Damaha, Tyamko, Sahanai, and Karnal (often replaced by Madal). These instruments are traditionally played by Damai men. Wedding processions are led by these men and are called auspicious. However, they are also called “lower” caste and are “untouchables”. How hypocritic!
Anyway, the Mangal Dhun (auspcious music) has begun the beautiful day. The sun is shining but its not hot. The groom and his parents are in their house making final preparations before the Janta or Bariyat (wedding procession).

Janti (Bariyati), the participants of the Janta (Bariyat), have begun gathering. The number is increasing every minute. Soon, there are around a hundred men, women and children.
The musicians are encouraged. They begin playing some old folk tunes and some Lok dohori (folk song sung by two groups, one of boys and another of girls) tunes. This genre of Nepali music. During the latter part of the decade modernization shot down the folk part and reduced it to Dohori. Folk instruments are now replaced by computers and auto-tuning has been creating robotic voices.

But folk tunes that use folk instruments have become popular again. And these are the tunes the musicians of the wedding procession are playing. The crowd gets excited, gets to its feet and starts dancing.
The groom’s brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts and even some neighbours are dancing on the last available piece of land in the neighbourhood. Had it been covered by a house already, the dancers would be on the streets. They are, but no vehicle or pedestrian is disturbed.

The way the Janti is dancing without the groom, I feel they are happier than the groom himself. They seem more excited than the groom. Why? I don’t know. If you analyse happiness, the remainder can not make you happy.

The Janti is tired but the groom has not come out. Questions are increasing: “Where is he? Isn’t this the time for Bariyat Prasthan (the beginning of the procession)? Why are they doing it late?”

Its midweek and not a public holiday. Most of the Janti will have to go to their jobs. They look at their wrist watch and then the people who are still dancing. They look at their wrist watch and then at the groom’s house.
Dad is not worried. “Have you taken a leave?” I ask.

“Yes,” he says. “You must attend your neighbours weddings. Janti is a proof that the groom’s family is not alone. The bride’s parents will feel secured that the neighborhood will support the groom’s family when they are in trouble and they also feel safe because there is a society that will secure the bride in case the groom’s family tries to hurt her.”

“That’s beautiful!” I exclaim. Before this, I thought wedding procession was just a medium to show off and that it was something that added woes to the bride’s parents. Sure, it increases their expenses but happiness and security are far greater than money.

And if groom and his family beat up the girl and neighbours interfere, they cannot say, “Get out off it. It’s our family matter.” The neighbours have the right to say, “You brought this girl here with promises of happiness in our presence. We are the witnesses of your oaths.”

***

The priests and the groom’s father put Teeka on each of Janti’s forehead including the musicians. The groom comes out. He is greeted with smiles, laughter and hootings. He then revolves clockwise round a decorated car, hired for the day, thrice. The musicians lead. A column of women carrying Kalash and other items follow. The groom’s car then sets off. The road gets blocked for a quarter of an hour. Other people who are passing by get irritated. Some don’t hesitate to curse!

A bus can easily come to the street but the groom’s family wants us to walk to the Chowk. We don’t mind. Elders say, “A Bariyat without a walk is boring.”

***

Wedding at the bride’s home or Tole (community) in Kathmandu is rare these days. Party palaces have the catering, ample space and wedding ground. They may be expensive, but are more convenient.

The bride’s family, relatives and neighbours (Ghargaule) greet the Janti. As I am distracted looking at the people, the groom disappers. About fifteen minutes later, I find him seated on a chair with the bride. The bride’s relatives are washing both of their feet. Her parents have done the “Kanyadan”, i.e. they have given their daughter to the groom.

Janti is sent to the “Dining Hall”. They gobble up food quickly. Those who have their office duties rush. Some people have taken, on their plates, more food than they can eat. People waste a lot of food in weddings. It’s beyond my understanding how they don’t know what and how much they want.

Ghargaunle eat next along with the bride and the groom. More food reaches the trash!

***

The sound of Panche Baja comes up again. Everyone rejoices. The use of Panche Baja in weddings has increased again in recent times. There was a time when playing folk Panche Baja was looked down upon. Band Baja (a Band with European instruments) was considered “modern” and better than the traditional folk music.

The dresses too have changed. I hear an elder saying, “When we were young, wearing Daura Suruwal meant you were going to be teased at. You would be a cartoon because no young people wore it. Time has changed. Young people have begun taking care of their culture again.”

Yes, young people don’t wear Daura Suruwal everyday but we have at least adopted it as a formal wear. I believe the youth of other religions and castes too are now taking care of their culture. I am not sure but I believe this is a result of the socio-political changes in this decade.

***

While the music has woken up people, the bride and the groom come to the Yagya. There are several rituals before and after the groom puts sindoor (vermillion) on the bride’s head. I don’t remember all. What I notice is that the bride is to the groom’s left in the beginning. At one point, I’m not sure when, the groom lifts the bride and puts her to his right. She will always be at her right in Yagyas since.
In Hindu tradition, before his marriage, a man conducts Yagyas all by himself. He alone makes all the things necessary. He alone pours ghee to the sacrificial fire. It’s the same for the girl. After the first Yagya with his wife, they’ll always perform the Yagya together. Both of them sacrifice their solitude in the fire and unite for life.
We have rituals that can go for hours.

Some people find these useless. I too thought so before I saw American weddings. Christians have short weddings. Father reads something and asks the man’s promise to take care of his wife. If he replies “Yes”, he asks the lady if she will take care of husband. If she too says yes, they become “Man and Wife”. Our Priests too read out something and asks for promises–all in Sanskrit. Most of us do not understand.

When the short wedding ends, bride and the groom play different games, sing and dance. Now, our rituals already have games like tug of war, gambling and so on. I feel its alright.

***

As the rituals are coming to an end, I see a plethora of emotions. The bride and her parents look sad, the groom and the Janti look happy. The Ghargaule are happy as well as sad. These play of emotions makes the wedding ceremony special.

The bride has lived her life with her parents until that day. After the ceremony ends, she will move to a new place, surrounded by new people. She is full of emotions. Sadness of leaving her parents, joy of ending society’s questions like “Why aren’t you married yet”, fear of not being accepted by her husband and his society. I am not a girl but I can feel her pain.

Parents are the saddest when their children leave them. I know this. I had a kitten. I loved her like a child. When she died, I could not control my emotions. Daughters are more than cats. Daughters are more livelier than sons. They laugh, dance and sing. They help parents in chores more than sons do. They heal their parents’ griefs more effectively than sons can. Without their daughter, her parents will lose the home she had created.

Relatives, neighbours, all cry. They have special bond with the girl. Friends cry seeing their friend in tears.

The groom and his family are happy because she will make a new home, similar to what she had built, in their house. Their happiness does not touch me much and despite being a Janti, I get emotional.

***

Sadness is not going to stop the custom. She must leave her parents. Before leaving, she cries and along with her cry all her family members, friends, relatives and neighbours. By the time she reaches at groom’s, she does not look too sad. Some brides cry for hours. She does not. The groom and the Janti have done a magic. May the charm stay forever!

Goma’s Birth and Curse on Her

This month we are worshipping Shree Swasthani, a Goddess who has been said to have appeared herself and is the most powerful. We recite stories from Magh Mahatmeya of Skanda Puran. This one episode is the one I don’t like. There would be nothing to say about Shrew Swasthani if it were absent, but I find it so ridiculous. I had posted an article on my Blogger.com on this episode two years ago. I share it here again.
http://sanskritepics-history-or-myth.blogspot.com/2014/02/gomas-birth-and-curse-on-her.html

एक प्रधानमन्त्री, एक राष्ट्रपति, जनकपुर र शुद्धिकरण

राम-जानकी विवाह पञ्चमी | मिथिलाञ्चलको सबैभन्दा ठूलो पर्व | रामले सीतालाई विवाह गर्नामा तत्कालिन अयोध्याका आफ्नै स्वार्थ थिए होलान् तर त्यो प्राक-ऐतिहासिक विषयमा कुनै अर्कै दिन चर्चा गरूँला | अहिलेको लागि दुई वर्ष यताका कुरा नै काफी छ |
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पोहोर साल विवाह पञ्चमीको बेलामा सायद सार्क (जसको अस्तित्व नाममा मात्र सीमित छ) शिखर सम्मेलन थियो | त्यसैले त कट्टर हिन्दुवादीको ताज पहिरीसकेका भारतीय प्रधानमन्त्री नरेन्द्र मोदी अयोध्या, जनकपुर हुँदै काठमाण्डू आउने योजना थियो | पछि सुरक्षाको कारण देखाउँदै उनी त्यो बाटोबाट आएनन् | हुन पनि भारतको सर्वेसर्वा भएर विश्वका प्रभावशाली १० मा उभिइसकेका व्यक्तिलाई आफ्नै सीमा जोगाउन नसक्ने नेपालीले के सुरक्षा दिन सक्थे र ? मोदीले बाटे फेरेकोमा जनकपुरे रिसाउँछन् भन्ठानेको आफ्नै सरकार विरुद्ध पो खनिए | आफैँले सजाएर बनाएका स्वागत द्वार भत्काएर जनकपुर बन्द पनि गराए | (उता अयोध्यातिरका चैँ चिढिएछन्, मोदीलाई हराएरै छाडे यसपालाको राज्य सभा चुनावमा) यो विषयमा एउटा फेसबुक पेजमा दुई पटक गरेर लेखेको पनि थिएँ |

माथिको घटना नलेखेको भए पनि हुन्थ्यो होला तर यसपालाको घटनाले पोहोर सालको घटनासँग कुनै सम्बन्ध राख्छ कि भन्ने मनमा परेकाले लेखिदिएँ | अब यसपालिको त के कुरी गरूँ र ? भन्दा पनि लाज लाग्ने ! राष्ट्रपति विद्यादेवी भण्डारीलाई जनकपुर पुग्ने वित्तिकै ‘अभाव भइरहेको पेट्रोल’ बमले स्वागत गरिएछ | पछि विरोधी समूहले केकस्ता काम गरेछन् भन्ने त टिभी, इन्टरनेट मार्फत धेरैलाई थाहा भइसकेको छ | त्यसको वर्णन मैले सायद गर्न पनि सक्दिनँ ! तर त्यो दुखद घटनामा राष्ट्रपतिलाई नै दोषि देखाउन खोजियो | कतिले त मधेसमा आन्दोलन भइरहेकाले उनी जनकपुर जानै हुँदैनथ्यो सम्म भन्न भ्याए | मैले सोचेँ, ‘ठीकै हो क्यारे ! राष्ट्रपतिले त्यहाँ गएर सुरक्षा चुनौति देखाइदिइन् | उनी नजाँदासम्म सुरक्षाको झुठो प्रत्याभूति त थियो !’

माथिका दई घटनाका आधारमा भारतका प्रधानमन्त्रीलाई स्वागत गर्न नपाउँदा बन्द गर्ने र आफ्नो राष्ट्रपतिको विरोध गर्नेहरूको राष्ट्रियतामा शंका गर्नुपर्छ भनेर माईसंसारको फेसबुक पोष्टमा कमेन्ट पनि गरेको थिएँ | तर विरोधको चुरो कताकता अर्कै थियो कि जस्तो लागेको थियो | मनमा खट्केको त्यो कुरो आज बिहान ‘नागरिक” मा आएको समाचार ले पुष्टि गरिदियो |

राष्ट्रपति विद्यादेवी भण्डारी माथि आक्रमण भएको खबर सुन्नु अघि कलर्स टिभीमा ‘इश्कका रंग सफेद’ भन्ने सिरीयल हेर्दै थिएँ | (मित्रहरूले मलाई राष्ट्रियताको कुरा गरेर हिन्दी च्यानल हेर्ने ? भन्दै हप्काउनु होला तर सरकारले नै विदेशी च्यालनल किनेर ‘हेर्’ भनेपछि म जस्तो बबुरोलाई हुटहुटी चलिहाल्दो रहेछ | फेरि विदेशी भाषाका कार्यक्रम, फिल्म हेर्दैमा कोही अराष्ट्रिय हुन्छ भन्नु पनि त संकीर्णताको पराकाष्ठा हो भन्छु म त , कसो ?) विधवा विवाहको विषय उठाइएको त्यो सिरियलको पहिलो एपिसोडहरूमा विधवा महिलालाई कृष्ण जन्माष्ठमी(?) मा मन्दिर जान रोक लगाइएको सिन देखाइएको थियो |  मन्दिरको  शुद्धिकरण गरिएका दृश्य पनि नआएका होइनन् | त्यसपछि उत्पन्न समस्यामा नै आजसम्म कहानी घुम्दै छ | यता जानकी मन्दिरमा पनि शुद्धिकरण भएछ, राष्ट्रपतिले पूजा गरेको निहुँमा !

जनप्रिय नेता मदन भण्डारीकी विधवा विद्यादेवी भण्डारीको संघर्षको कथाले सायद उपन्यास बन्ला | भन्नेले त पतिको मृत्युमा उनको संलग्नता थियो सम्म पनि भन्छन् | तर अप्रमाणित कुराको पछि लागेर एकल महिलाको रूपमा उनले सहनु परेका पीडालाई नजरन्दाज गर्नु हुँदैन | उनले यस समाजमा भोग्नु परेको पीडाको एउटा अध्याय होइन र जानकी मन्दिरको ‘शुद्धिकरण’ ? ‘आइमाईको बुद्धि !’ भन्दै महिला राष्ट्रपतिका कार्यको विरोध गर्ने विधवाले पूजा गरेको भनेर मन्दिर ‘शुद्धिकरण’ गर्ने कामले समाजमा नीहित संकीर्णता प्रष्ट पार्दैनन् र ?

राष्ट्रपतिजस्तो सर्वोच्च पदमा आसिन महिलालाई समेत हेप्न सक्ने हाम्रो समाजले गरिब महिलाहरूलाई कति पेल्दो हो | बोक्सी, डाइन भन्दै मलमुत्र खुवाइएका कतिपय महिलाहरू आज पनि न्यायको भिख माग्दैछन् | विडम्बना, महिलाहरू नै त्यस्तो लाजमर्दो काम गर्न पछि पर्दैनन् | के ती गरिब, दुःखी नारीहरूको मर्का समाजले बुझ्ला ? बुझ्ला भन्ने त मलाई पटक्कै लाग्दैन |

निष्कर्ष ? यति लामो गन्थनको निष्कर्ष मैले निकाल्नै सकिन | पाठकहरूले नै मद्दत गरिदिनु पर्यो |

(नोट: बिहान ‘नागरिक’ को समाचार शेयर गर्दा मधेसीको संकीर्णता देखियो भनेको थिएँ | यस्तो सोचले देशलाई नै गाँजेको होला | तर पहाडेलाई संकीर्ण देख्नेहरू पनि त वास्तवमा उदार रहेनछन् भन्नेतर्फ संकेत गरेको थिएँ भन्न चाहन्छु |

साथै, नगेन्द्र (नगेन्द्र राज शर्मा?)का निबन्ध पनि सम्झन्छु | नेपालमा महिला सम्बन्धी संकीर्ण सोच कतै काशीबाट त आएनन् ? उनी पटकपटक प्रश्न गर्छन् | माथि उल्लिखित सिरियल त्यतैको परिवेशमा आधारित भएकाले नगेन्द्रको प्रश्न पनि विचारणीय छ |)

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